Sunday, October 29, 2006

I Know I'm in France When...

I know I'm in France when I walk down the stairs at Marty's research institute and look directly at the back of one of the scientists having a pee. Yes, there are doors on the bathrooms, but they don't appear to ever be used. Marty told me he actually feels awkward closing the door because no one else does.

Monday, October 23, 2006

French School

French school is, not surprisingly, an international polyglot. I have had people from Belgium, Ukraine, Spain, Mexico, Guatemala, UK, Poland, Australia, Germany, Japan, Taiwan, Finland and Malaysia in my classes. I have only had one other American in my classes and that was only for two weeks. With the exception of the Anglophones, almost everyone in the school is learning French as their third, fourth or even fifth language. The assumption is that everybody already knows English. To give you a flavor of how multicultural Europe has become (presumably as a result of the European Union), I thought I might introduce to you some of my classmates:

Larissa is a 25 year old Ukranian woman who, in addition to Ukrainian and English, speaks Russian. She is a graduate student in Sweden where she met her French boyfriend, (who may be the only Frenchmen ever to be named “Sven”) and has moved to Toulouse with him where he is finishing up his internship for his degree from their Swedish University. Larissa and Sven speak English together since neither of them knows the other’s native language well enough to communicate effectively in it. They occasionally have disputes about the correct way to say something in English, so I, with my newly assumed role as English expert, serve as the arbitrator.

Jowita is a Polish woman in her 30’s who just spent eight years living in Germany. She recently moved to Toulouse with her English partner. She works as a translator translating documents in Polish, German and Swedish. I believe that she and her partner speak German when they are together since this is a strong language for both of them.

Marco, who is in his 40’s, claims to have no country affiliation because he thinks one’s nationality is irrelevant. (To be sure that his message is clear, he has a tattoo that says something to this effect.) He was born in Finland, has a Swedish passport and has spent the last 10 years living in Costa Rica. He works as a ship mechanic and speaks Spanish, Finnish, Swedish, some Russian and English. Apparently this wasn’t enough, so he decided to spend his six week break from the ship learning French.

Linda, an Englishwoman in her 50’s or 60’s, has a doctorate from Oxford and works with neglected and abused children in England. She and her husband Jeffrey, like many other Brits, have bought a second home in southern France. Apparently houses cost half as much in France as they do in Britain (and of course the weather is considerably more desirable), so there are relatively large British populations in certain areas of southern France.

Miguel is a 20 year old Spaniard from Valencia. He spent three months in various places in the U.S. (including New Hampshire) working on his English. Miguel is very sweet but has trouble getting to class on time. To redeem himself for arriving late to class, he gave us a Flamenco lesson last week. Today I learned that his mother likes expensive bullfights (the cheap ones are apparently less authentic), but Miguel does not like bullfights at all. As you can see, one can learn odd things about people in the course of practicing French.

Sadly, Jowita, Marco, and Linda all left school in the last couple of weeks. Today was Larissa’s last day, so now it is Miguel and me with the newer comers, who no doubt will also be interesting to get to know. The diversity of students can make conversations in class quite interesting (when we can understand each other). We have discussed topics such as women’s suffrage movements, TV shows and legal systems in our various countries.

The composition of classes varies on a weekly basis. When we come in on Monday mornings we never know who will be in our class that week. People come for various durations and change levels at different points during their stay. The minimum stay is usually 2 weeks. I don’t believe anyone is registered for as many weeks as me (36 weeks) – but you know some of us need more time. Actually there is a very significant discount for registering for 36 weeks, and I am paying half of the normal class fee.

Conversations in French with other students are always a bit dubious because we all speak French with accents from our “maternal” language. Consequently, we have trouble understanding each other’s French. Not surprisingly, it is always easier for me to understand French when it is spoken by other Anglophones. I find the accents of the native Spanish speakers to be the most difficult to understand. The week I had a class that included three Guatemalans, a Mexican and a Spaniard was, to say the least, a bit dicey.

Using any language besides French during class time is frowned upon, although on occasions a teacher may, in Marty’s words, “throw us a bone” and give us a word or two in English to facilitate understanding. They will also draw pictures and use other creative means to explain words. This method of complete French immersion was particularly difficult for Marty who entered his Debutante class with no French background. It is obviously of limited use to hear an explanation in French if you can’t understand any French. Marty, needless to say, is not entirely sold on the immersion method.

The use of bilingual dictionaries is also strongly discouraged by some teachers. If we don’t know what something means, we are supposed to ask the teacher who will give us an explanation in French or ask the other students to explain it in French. The dictionary rule is one that I break more frequently than the other students, as I will occasionally sneak a peak in my dictionary during break or when the teacher is distracted with other tasks. Call me a rebel.

Classes are approximately 4 hours per day with a 15 minute break. Class size is limited to no more than 11 students and generally my classes have been smaller. Last weeks’s class had only six students, and my current class has seven.

The school offers cultural activities in the evenings and afternoons. The programs range from tours of the Airbus facility to learning petanque, a local game similar to Bocce. Regular programs include a wine and cheese tasting class, watching French movies (with explanations from one of the teachers), cycling on the Canal du Midi (obviously not one that Marty and I need to participate in), and boat cruises on the Garonne River. There are also occasional concerts, French sing-alongs and evenings out on the town. Tomorrow a Polish student and I will take a French cooking class together at a local cooking school. I’ve enjoyed all of the programs I’ve attended, but I am delaying my participation in many of them until I finish my capstone paper, which is due in November.

One of the best features of school is the opportunity to have a “Tandem partner.” These are local folks who want to learn your language, so you meet with them and speak French half the time and, in my case, English the other half. I actually have two Tandem partners: Estelle, who works as a trainer for a company that coats airplane parts for Airbus and Alain, an actor. So far I mostly just take walks with my tandem partners and talk. They sometimes show me interesting places and answer my questions about France and the French. The Tandem partners are particularly important for me since I am not living with a French family and otherwise don’t have many opportunities for lengthy conversations in French. There is a shortage of English speakers at school to meet the requests for English speaking partners, so I am scheduled to get a third Tandem partner next week.

Learning French feels like a full time job. I usually have homework, and I try to read my French Harry Potter book or the newspaper, listen to the radio and watch some TV every day. (I chose to read Harry Potter in French because I knew I could still follow the story even if I missed some of the French.) Marty and I call TV watching “listening exercises” as it sounds much more virtuous than couch potatoes. My favorite TV show is an after school program for kids called “C’est pas sorcier” (it’s not magic) that explains cool things like how the fountains work at Versailles. I am slowly seeing improvements in my TV-watching ability as I can now understand the preschool cartoons and the home shopping network. Scooby-doo, however, is still beyond my French abilities.

I learned about the wonders of French practice through the home shopping network (HSN) when Marty and I went to the Mediterranean for the weekend to celebrate his birthday, and the TV at the hotel included the HSN. While I would never be caught dead watching HSN in English, HSN in French offers an ideal comprehension exercise. The French is clear, simple, spoken slowly, repeated frequently and includes demonstrations of what they are talking about. Unfortunately, we don’t get this wonder-station at home yet. Perhaps this is just as well that we don’t get it since they had me completely sold on a steam cleaner. My French might improve through the home shopping network, but it is potentially hazardous to the wallet.

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Favorite French Expression

My favorite French expression (this week) is "avoir le cafard," which means to feel depressed. The literal translation, however, is to "have the cockroach." Who came up with that one?

Sunday, October 15, 2006

Les Bisous

We all know that French people frequently kiss friends and family on the cheeks when greeting and saying goodbye. Technically, I think it is more accurate to consider this act to be more like cheek pressing than actual kissing. In my brief experience with this form of greeting, I have observed that the kisses are usually air kisses, and the lips don’t actually make contact with the cheek. I suspect this is simply a result of the physical constraints of lips as it is difficult for two people with normal lip extension ability who are cheek-to-cheek to simultaneously make lip-to-cheek contact. Whatever the cause, I, for one, am grateful for this physical limitation.

I must confess that “les bisous,” the French kisses, have been a source of mild anxiety for me. I am, after all, a born and bred New Englander. We don’t kiss. In fact, we hardly even see each other half of the year, and it would be unseemly to start kissing each other when we do come out of hibernation. A simple hello will almost always do, and a hug is more than sufficient for those moments when people get carried away. Kisses, however, are simply out of the question.

Having been in France for two months, I now have friends and acquaintances who greet me with les bisous. (I know you are dying to know, but I refuse to name names.) I try to stay cool and act like I have been doing this all my life. Inside, however, I experience the natural adrenaline rush that occurs when one is under attack. And then there is that little voice saying, “Oh my god, here it comes.”

You can imagine the many ways les bisous could go wrong. What if I miss the air and make contact with a body part? What if we both accidentally go in the same direction and knock heads, or worse, knock lips? What if I think it’s going to be bisous, I make my move and it turns out that they are just bending over to tie their shoe? Obviously les bisous are a cultural accident waiting to happen.

For Marty and me, bisous raise two vital issues. The most obvious one is whom do you bisou? We still have little or no insight into this as the initial bisou from someone is almost always so shocking that it’s impossible to maintain the mental or emotional equilibrium necessary to assess the situation. For us, les bisous are the French equivalent of a “shock and awe” offensive. Needless to say, we have never initiated a bisou. As Marty says, “Man, you’d never want to go that route.”

The second, more pressing issue is where do we put our hands during les bisous? This might seem like a minor issue compared to the larger, more overwhelming dilemma of bisous in general, but it’s one of those seemingly minor details that, if improperly addressed, could result in international scandal. We can all easily come up with potential safe areas for hands, but, as you can imagine, there isn’t always time and adequate reflex speed to move hands into one of these safe zones. Marty and I have discussed the hand question extensively, but have yet to find resolution. As always, advice is welcome.

Marty generally doesn’t suffer from bisou anxiety. He doesn’t get bisou’d as often as I do because men don’t bisou other men that commonly. Both men and women will bisou a woman, thereby doubling my opportunities for les bisous. His height is also an advantage since most people are shorter than him and require him to bend for proper bisou placement. Consequently, he is not susceptible to random bisous, while any adult-sized person can bisou me without my cooperation. Also, Marty cleverly takes the offensive and offers his hand in greeting, thereby minimizing the opportunity for bisous. In fact the only time I’ve seen him bisou’d is when a very cute French woman in a tight black dress with knee-length black leather boots bisou’d him when they were introduced. He hardly suffered.

I consider myself lucky because one kiss on each cheek is sufficient in France. According to my French school classmates, there are other cultures that are three-kiss cultures. Perhaps the French enjoy the symmetry of just two kisses. I am grateful for this bit of conservatism as I think the frenetic action required for three kisses is simply too hazardous.

I am showing progress in my bisou acculturation. With practice I have started to relax into les bisous. Fortunately there haven’t been any “accidents” yet, so I am being lulled into a sense of comfort that is perhaps unwarranted. I also now generally know whom to expect bisous from, so the initial shock of having someone’s face ominously approach mine is dissipating. I think with a bit more practice I may even begin to like it.

XX Nancy
(For those of you unfamiliar with this particular form of greeting card coding, the X’s are kisses. Normally one would also use O’s for hugs, but we don’t hug in France.)

Friday, October 06, 2006

Smoking Ban in France?

I thought you might be interested in this NY Times article about smoking France and the discussion here on whether to ban smoking in public places:

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/06/world/europe/06france.html?pagewanted=1&ei=5094&en=9b0e2ff9c47b50c6&hp&ex=1160193600&partner=homepage

(Sorry, I don't seem to be able to hyperlink it, but if you are interested in reading it, you should be able to copy and paste the URL into your browser.)

Monday, October 02, 2006

We Know We're in France When...

We know we're in France when we see genitals on TV during prime time.